While no beach is perfect, the North Shore comes pretty close to it with a series of clean sandy beaches that are not only safe for families but that also promise numerous activities for those interested in a pro-active vacation. Count on activities such as horseback riding, surfing, wave-running, banana boats, scuba diving and snorkeling, sunning, having lunch or a romantic dinner and even getting married. Whatever your bent, there is a beach for it.
WALKING BEACHES
One of the longest beaches for walking extends from Nuevo Vallarta along the inside curve of the bay past Flamingos and on to BucerÃas and La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. This easy slope is narrower than at some other points, but in many spots you can walk quite a ways out before reaching waist-high water. Horseback riding is popular here as are other water sports such as banana boats, wave runners and more. In many stretches there are restaurants and bars with beachside service for taking a break before continuing on toward the distant horizon. Eventually much of this stretch of prime beach will be lined by the new malecón planned by the state of Nayarit.
Other popular walking beaches include the famous Los Muertos Beach right in the Romantic Zone on the south side of the Cuale River. Most heavily populated with families during long weekends or holidays, vendors ply their trade heavily along this stretch. The Los Muertos Pier offers water taxi service to beaches south of Vallarta accessible only by water while it’s also useful for fishing right off the dock. The water taxi from Nuevo Vallarta stops here to allow connections to those beaches south of the city.
One of my favorite walking beaches is beyond La Cruz after the first areas of rocky coastline. Destiladeras not only has free off-road parking and beach access but there is also a decent restaurant and bar right off the parking area. Once you’re on the beach, there are a few vendors, but heading toward the point, you can seemingly walk for miles without bumping into anyone.
BEACH ESCAPES
The majority of the very private beaches in Banderas Bay and beyond are accessible only by water. While some are served by the regular water taxi service, others may be only served by contracting a trip by private panga or motorboat. While rates are not expensive, the suggestion is to ask around before bartering for a rate, which may vary depending on how many people are involved, how much you carry in the way of supplies, etc. Nevertheless, pay only a portion of the fee in advance with the promise of the remainder upon the agreed-upon pick-up time.
Among the suggestions for an escape is the “lovers’ beach� hidden within the Marietas Islands. A panga will take you there, but remember it’s only accessible during lower tides and calmer seas when you can make it through the narrow channel. Take anything with you since there are no services; bag up any garbage for your return trip to leave this natural area as pristine as you found it.
The beach just below Garza Blanca on the south shore (on the road to Mismaloya) is accessible by road, but the road is closed. To access the beach, go beyond the turn-off where the large abandoned hotel sits on the right side of the highway. Just as the road heads up the hill, a small gravel parking area on the shoulder allows passageway to the beach below. While holiday weekends may find this small beach mobbed with local families, during the week it tends to be completely deserted.
While the beach at Majahuitas is generally “off-limits� to the public due to the boutique hotel there, the beach itself can be accessed by boat. It’s a pretty beach, private other than the north curve which is where the small private hotel has its palapas and beach lounges. They won’t bother you as long as you don’t try to enter the hotel grounds. And don’t ask for breakfast or a meal as the tables are for guests only. Bring your own refreshments. Snorkeling is decent in the small bay.
Beyond Destiladeras, heading toward the point of Punta de Mita, there are large coves which are relatively private with some residences above on the rocky coastline. Occasional vendors may find their way along the beach but try the restaurant at the entrance just off the parking lot.
COMMUNITY AND FAMILY BEACHES
When you travel with the family, having services at hand may increase the cost but also greatly decrease your worries of what to take with you for the day. Some of the popular family beaches with services at hand include Destiladeras and Manzanilla, both in or near La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. The sandy beach is flat and waves are gentle, making it safer for younger children, always with supervision. Continuing on the main highway toward the point, turn toward the large parking lot in Anclote where numerous restaurants and clubs line the beach. Jetties protect the area from heavier waves providing safer swimming for children.
Downtown BucerÃas has decent parking available with your choice of restaurants and a decent sloping beach. Horses ply the coastline offering rides at a fee. Choose the shade of a palapa and enjoy at-your-elbow service from the nearby restaurant. Seafood is de rigeuer.
Nuevo Vallarta has several areas that function very well for families with nearby restaurants and bar services. Spend a day at the Beach Club just off the first glorieta (round-about) that leads to Paradise Plaza. The entrance with parking is located right next to Playa Royale. Because of the restaurant, you will not be allowed to bring your own food and refreshments but expect to enjoy the services they offer, including bathrooms, a large swimming pool and innumerable palapas.
Just a bit north is ETC., a beach club with good food and bar service as well as palapas for shade along the raked sandy beach. Nearby vendors offer parachutes above the bay as well as wave runners.
Boca de Tomates is a wide public beach with an access road just south of the Ameca River right where the speed bumps cross the southbound lane of the highway. Located a couple kilometers off that highway at the river mouth, the north side is a crocodile swamp but the beach offers decent food service at numerous protected stands, great for families.
“Holly� Beach is open for public access just south of the Pitillal River next to the Grand Venetian complex in the Hotel Zone of Puerto Vallarta. Signs will direct you to the turn just off the bridge. A seafood restaurant, a bar and other services including bathrooms are available at this beach, the occasional scene of raves or other live music events during holidays.
One of the most popular beaches along the entire bay is Los Muertos, located right off the Romantic Zone in Puerto Vallarta. Convenient parking at a fee is available right below the new Plaza Lázaro Cárdenas. Walk along the beach from there to choose from any number of decent restaurants and bars, some of them gourmet, others with live music. Bathrooms are available at a small fee next to Pau Pau across from the entrance to Daiquiri Dick’s. Further south there are two life guard stands, but verify that they’re manned before jumping in at your own risk. While this beach is popular, the waves can also be rougher (hence the name Olas Altas (“high waves�) of the nearest main street.). Olas Altas is lined with coffee shops and cafés for that caffeine break. For those interested, or who would just as well be forewarned, there is a gay beach about halfway toward the stairway (the “poor man’s gym�) at the area with blue beach loungers called the “blue chairs.�
Offering water taxi service to points south and north, Los Muertos Pier is located on this beach at Fca. RodrÃguez. This is also the beach with live music for the free celebration on March 21 each year.
For family groups, it’s hard to beat the boat-accessible beaches of Quimixto, Las �nimas and Caletas. The first two are inexpensive with regular water taxi service plying the coastline all day. Numerous restaurants and developed food stands will vie for your group, so choose one and use it as your base of operations in order to have access to the bathroom. Caletas, the ejido land originally developed by late director John Huston (The Night of the Iguana, among others) is available through Vallarta Adventures as a day tour with night dining as well.
Yelapa is arguably the best-known and best developed of the south shore beaches. The town is quaint, and tours offer either a trek or a ride by horseback to the nearby waterfalls. Several hotels are located on the curve of the bay where restaurants offer great seafood. Known as an artist colony, Yelapa has an annual croquet festival around Valentine’s Day with a popular masquerade ball that evening. Live music, art exhibitions and other events are offered sporadically throughout the season.
While Boca de Tomatlán is not well-known as a beach, it nevertheless deserves a mention as the southern drop-off and pick-up point for water taxis along the south shore. Once again, several restaurants and bars line the curve of the not-so-large beach area. Because of the river that feeds into the small cove, the water doesn’t look clean during the rainy season because of the run-off, but a new water treatment plant has presumably taken care of that problem.
North of Punta de Mita, consider the beaches of Sayulita, San Pancho and Lo de Marcos, all with services convenient for families and groups. Other than during holiday periods when the beaches can be mobbed, a number of activities open up possibilities for a great family day at the beach.
SURFING
The best surfing beach is in Sayulita. In fact, it’s where surfing is a way of life. Not only for those who enjoy it but for those who just like being around surfing. And if water is not your bag, head for one of the neighborhood cybers to surf the Internet. Along or near the wide beach in Sayulita, expect to find services such as surfing lessons, cyber cafes, art galleries, boutiques, handicraft stands, food from gourmet Mexican to beachside palapa style and more.
Two other areas worth mentioning in relation to surfing: check out the beginning classes in Anclote near the tip of Punta de Mita. Restaurants and bars populate the jetty-lined beach with every service near at hand.
Further up the north coast, for those who want to escape, head to Matanchen Bay where the longest wave in the Americas was measured some years back. This super-wide beach allows horseback riding, sunning, volleyball and almost anything else you can think of even up to driving the vehicle on the packed sand.
