THE BEGINNING OF A REUNION
It all began in Tepic, just as the first light of dawn touched the sky. The journey to San Blas was short but filled with anticipation. In just 30 minutes, the green of the landscape guided me to the port terminal, where the ferry awaited. There, before the vast Pacific, I knew I was about to experience more than a trip—a journey into a past transformed into the present.
THREE HOURS TOWARDS THE UNKNOWN
The ferry set sail, leaving the mainland behind. The three-hour voyage felt like a breath of fresh air: the gentle rocking of the sea, seabirds escorting the boat, and the deep blue of the ocean all welcomed us to a place that was once out of reach. We arrived at Puerto Balleto, the living soul of María Madre Island—heart of the archipelago and witness to a story of imprisonment, redemption, and transformation.
LAGUNA DEL TORO
THE ECHO OF A PRISION
Our first stop was Laguna del Toro, a former maximum-security prison. Walking through its silent hallways and timeworn walls felt like opening a book with no words, yet full of stories. Here, inmates once lived, and every corner seems to hold their thoughts and struggles. Today, the site has been reimagined as a space of memory and awareness.
THE SALTWORKS
LABOR, SWEAT AND CINEMA
We also visited the old saltworks, one of the sites of forced labor during the island’s time as a penitentiary. Despite its harsh past, the place is fascinating: salt was once harvested here under the scorching Pacific sun. It was also a filming location for the movie Las Islas Marías (1951), starring Pedro Infante, forever marking this corner of the island in the history of Mexican cinema.
PUNTA HALCONES
WHEN THE SUN TOUCHES THE SOULS
In the afternoon, we headed to the Punta Halcones viewpoint. The wind blew strong and the sun began to set, painting the sky in reddish hues. The sunset was a wordless spectacle—one of those moments that can’t be explained, only felt. A peaceful haven where time seemed to stand still.
WINE UNDER THE STARS
A TASTING BENEATH THE NAYARIT SKY
The night brought a delightful surprise: a wine tasting featuring Nayarit wines from Meseta del Cielo. Beneath a starry sky and accompanied by the sea breeze, each glass told a story—a story of a Nayarit that produces, innovates, and celebrates its land. A treat for the senses and the perfect ending to our first day.
CHAPINGO BEACH
FREEDOM IN THE WATER
The next morning, I visited Chapingo Beach, a hidden gem tucked between rocky formations and turquoise sea. The calm waves and soft sand invite total relaxation. I immersed myself in its waters as if shedding my burdens, embracing the purity of the present moment.
THE CEMETERY
NAMES THAT STILL LIVE
The next stop on the journey was the island’s cemetery, a place where former inmates, guards, and residents now rest. It isn’t somber, but rather moving. Each headstone holds a fragment of history, of humanity, of lives changed by this corner of the Pacific.
MURALS AND WATER WALLS
ART THAT TELLS
We also explored the water walls, part of the old hydraulic system, and murals created by former inmates. Through bold strokes, the island’s story is told with emotion and symbolism. Here, art becomes catharsis—a way to release what couldn’t be said in words.
PEDALING THROUGH MEMORY
PUERTO BALLETO BY BIKE
I grabbed a bicycle and explored Puerto Balleto, now officially designated a Pueblo Mágico—a title that honors its transformation from penal colony to resilient community. Quiet streets, restored buildings, and the warmth of its people make cycling through it an act of discovery and reconciliation with the past.
SITE MUSEUM
HISTORY FROM THE INSIDE
The visit to the Islas Marías Museum was eye-opening. Photographs, preserved cells, tools, documents, and letters reconstruct daily life on the island. This space doesn’t just inform—it moves you, educates, and raises questions about justice, dignity, and reintegration.
BEACH CLUB
A FAREWELL BY THE SEA
Finally, I said goodbye to the island at its beach club. Sitting by the sea, feet in the sand and heart full, I realized this is not just another destination. It’s a place where history breathes, where the past is embraced without fear, and where natural and human beauty meet in balance.
CRISTO REY
A FINAL GLIPMSE FROM ABOVE
Before leaving the island, I decided on one last walk—a spiritual closing to the experience: the ascent to Cristo Rey. The white, imposing statue watches over the island from above. The trail winds through shrubs, rocks, and ever-expanding views. At the summit, silence took hold. From there, I gazed out over the island—its beaches, its streets, its story… It was a moment of deep connection: with faith, with the land, and with myself. A kind of final blessing that crowned this journey into the soul of Nayarit.
ISLAS MARÍAS: MORE THAN A TRIP, A TRANSFORMATION
Visiting the Islas Marías is not just about discovering a place—it’s about listening to its silences, witnessing its transformation, and allowing it to touch your soul. It’s a journey that blends the hardness of the past with the hope of the present, introspection with natural wonder, memory with beauty.
By Charlie Travels
